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Messages - almonpoole

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61
How To / Re: Various How Tos
« on: February 26, 2008, 01:21:37 PM »
When it comes to jets there a few different reasons for needing different sizes.

1: Altitude

2: How restrictive is your bike, meaning, have you changed the air filter and exhaust out or just the air filter.

3: Temperature.

As a base example, I live at an altitude of 450 feet in North west Alabama so the temp is warm and muggy most of the year. I changed out my air filter and drilled my exhaust and I have always used a #115. I just received my new exhaust today and after install I am guessing I can get by with a #125 or larger.

You can generally tell if the bike is running to rich by opening up the throttle, if the bike smothers itself at full throttle then you are too rich, if you are too lean the engine will run hot.

Another to tell is by running the bike for a while then pulling the spark plug and looking at it, you want to pull the spark plug before you do this first so you have a point of reference.

A black/brown plug means the bike is running too rich while a white plug means the bike is running to lean. It is better to run a little rich than a little to lean as a rule. The leaner the engine the warmer it will run and that can burn the engine up.

Also about the tires, You can see in the gallery of Lifan-moto my latest bike with wider tires installed.

I am running a,

100/80-18 on the front and a 140/70-18 on the rear. Your tire choice is fine but you can go wider on the stock rim in the future if you decide to :), also be careful to make sure these tires are warm after a short ride, some tires on eBay are just not sticky enough for my taste. Of course for regular riding they will be perfectly fine, but don't dive into a corner doing 50mph down a 10% grade with you knee touching the ground until you have some nice good sticky tires on your bike ;D

Hope this helps,

Almon





62
Chit Chat / Re: T Motorsports eBay Store
« on: February 26, 2008, 12:54:30 PM »
Hi Stryder,

You are correct. I have always thought there was room for two types of dealers.

1: The do it yourself kind of technical person who wants a good deal and can do the maintenance work him/her self.

2: The type of person who would like to have their bike serviced an does not want to mess with it much beyond riding it.

If you are a number (1) then you should probably buy from a direct importer, If you are a number (2) then you should buy from an American Lifan dealer as they have a dealer network.

What country cruiser was saying is that if you are a number (1) then don't take it to a American Lifan dealer because they will not work on it. This is a rule which I do not like but it is THEIR rule so if you want American Lifan to support your bike you should by one from them and do not complain about it if you buy from a direct importer and can't find service.

Parts are available all over the net and even some American Lifan dealers will sell you parts but you must install them yourself. Also they are not supposed to sell parts to non American Lifan bikes but some do anyway. Parts are also available from the dealer you purchased from, you should ask about parts availability before you buy from any dealer.

Those are the two choices. And if that does not confuse you then just wait, we are going to have no less than twenty five new bikes to filter through this year from various manufacturers. ;D

Almon





63
Pictures and Videos / Re: Videos GY5, GY6
« on: February 25, 2008, 10:27:20 PM »
 ;D ;D I heard you were going to smoke that tire! ;D ;D

Almon

64
Chit Chat / Re: T Motorsports eBay Store
« on: February 25, 2008, 09:09:32 PM »
I don't think he has an axe to grind. He is just a little confused and who can blame him. China Lifan chose American Lifan to officially sell their bikes in the United States but China Lifan still sells to a lot of other importers.

At least from the big three, Rabbit, Hooper and TMS these bikes come from China Lifan, same bike, same city, same MCO/MSO and same plant. In fact there was a post the other day about the swing arm sticker reading imported by American Lifan on the Rabbit Scooters bikes (mine says this as well).

China Lifan has created a lot of confusion and I hope things are being worked out so the public knows what the truth is in the future.

Almon



65
How To / Rear Fender Trim
« on: February 25, 2008, 08:00:18 PM »
Hi macdofwy,

I'm working a on rear sprocket howto.

The rear fender trim is really easy. Take the rear fender off the bike trim around the areas that overhang outside of the rear plastics underneath the saddle. Just leave enough to drill two new holes so you can install your tag mount. I'll try to take a few photos of my bike for you in a few days and get the photos in the gallery.

Front sprocket replacement is a no,no unless you want to grind into your engine case (see below)

http://www.lifan-moto.com/gallery/fs/

You can of course go with a 428 setup like another member did but unless you change your gearing a lot this is overkill, just buy a 520 rear sprocket in the 34,35, or 36 tooth range and you should be fine unless you like tinkering with the bike a lot.

Chain shortening is very easy just use a dremal tool with a grinder bit or a bench grinder to remove a link or two. There are many places on the web that will show you how to do this, you local hardware shop can tell you how as well. btw, the 35 and 36 tooth rear sprocket do not require you to remove a link, only the 34 tooth or below needs a link(s) taken out.

The exhaust drilling helps a little bit and yes you can drill with the muffler attached. It is not going to be the same as a performance exhaust Like Bill and I have purchased. More to come on this subject soon.

It does not hurt to use loctite on all of the lower faring screws and bolts, although for the rear plastics I would not loctite those as they are removed regularly for maintenance.

You can use it on all over the bike where you might find things coming loose, but mainly, on the four rear sprocket bolts when you change it out.

http://www.lifan-moto.com/gallery/almon2/101_0788.htm

There is a video on the air filter change as well as the jet change. When you take the old jet out just reverse the process to reinstall the new jet, it does need to be tight but not overly tight or you could damage it.

http://www.lifan-moto.com/video.htm

I'm sure there will be some other posts on these things from others users but maybe I've helped a little bit.....

Thanks,

Almon





66
LF200 / Re: Getting Lf200 in spring. Plz help a Noob.
« on: February 25, 2008, 05:38:35 PM »
It is a really good bike, the LF200-III that is, but there will always be a little vibration. It is a non balanced single cylinder engine.

The LF200-III is more my taste vs the Qlink though.

You can find prices here,

http://www.motorcycles.pro/Motorcycles/tabid/159/Default.aspx

Almon

67
LF200 / Re: Getting Lf200 in spring. Plz help a Noob.
« on: February 25, 2008, 01:42:35 PM »
mtliu is correct, if you want to do long distances you can get by with an Lf200-III but your feet and hands might tingle for the next few hours after you arrive at you destination :)

The changing of the rear sprocket will help remove a good bit of the vibration but not 100%, in fact on the 163 fml engine it will always vibrate some.

A touring scooter might be what you need or perhaps one of the 300cc counter balanced sport bikes coming soon.

Here is another option, no shifting, smooth riding bike with a sound system built in,

http://www.motorcycles.pro/Motorcycles/QLINKSaperoV3250CCFullyAutomaticMotorcycle/tabid/192/Default.aspx

And a review,


http://www.womenridersnow.com/PublicFiles/DepartmentViewer.asp?ArticleID=334

Almon


68
LF200 / Re: Lifan-Moto
« on: February 25, 2008, 12:33:18 AM »
That is interesting. My first bike a LF200-III from TMS was very easy to shift but I have noticed my LF200-III from Rabbit does seem harder to shift. I have changed my oil twice, still under 100 miles and it seems to be the same no matter what.

I kind of like it because I don't skip a gear when shifting but if you are shifting fast you can mis second when shifting from first and land in neutral!

Maybe once you have some miles on it the shifting will free up a little.

Bill, you have a new Rabbit LF200-III how does your bike shift?

Almon

69
LF200 / Re: Getting Lf200 in spring. Plz help a Noob.
« on: February 24, 2008, 10:56:35 PM »
Sorry the $1400 does not include shipping and you would need to pick it up but it is about a $2000 bike with all the mods. At least it is getting close to that.

As for after market parts spend some time here,

http://www.lifan-moto.com/parts.htm

You will find all the major mods on this page.

I have ridden my old bike for about 3 1/2 hours at one time with no problems. I have heard of others who have ridden for much longer. I am not sure what speeds they were averaging though, but you should be able to go for at least three or four hours I would think. Does anyone else know for sure????

One note, when you change the stock gearing you lower the cruise rpm so that makes a difference, some people will tell you you can never run 70 for a long time but they are using a stock bike more than likely so it is key to understand who you are asking about the bike. There are many who just a buy a stock bike and give up. These types know very little and you will find them on other forums by the dozen.

The exhaust comes from the Philippines and prices do vary depending on if you just buy the pipe or the entire exhaust. I just purchased the muffler for under $130 shipped. Bataycan's store is where you want to go for the exhaust.

Hope this helps,

Almon

70
LF200 / Re: Getting Lf200 in spring. Plz help a Noob.
« on: February 24, 2008, 10:00:46 PM »
Hi,

I can't speak to the sound system, but I have noticed newer helmets with mp3 systems built in so that may work out the sound issue. Of course you can somehow mount something but it would be tricky and getting power to it would also be tricky.

As far as the digital speedo I am absolutely sure this can be done but I have not ventured there myself and I don't think I will on this bike.

I have hit 105 plus going down a mountain and hit 100 on a flat road with a little tail wind. To achieve this you need to do a few things,

1: Replace the restrictive air intake with a conical air filter.
2: Rejet the carb
3: Change the rear sprocket to a 34/35 tooth, giving you a 14x34 or 14x35 setup.
4: Buy a new exhaust, although I have hit my speeds with the stock exhaust but I drilled it so it is less restrictive, this was on my old bike.

These bikes are not made to ride at these speeds all day, when I hit 105 I only did that for a few seconds and then dropped back down to 80. With the mods 75-80 is a good steady comfortable speed to ride at but when you need to the bike will climb higher in speed.

Fyi, I am about to take deliver of a new 300cc bike and I have a black/silver 2008 LF200-III with all the mods performed including the wider tires. It has under 100 miles and as soon as the title comes in the mail I will be putting it up on eBay. I am going to ask $1,400 for it, so about what a new one costs with all the mods and under 100 miles.

It will be on the home page of lifan-moto.com just as soon as the title makes it in.

You will need to finish the break in period though for about another 400 or 500 miles and then you can let loose on it.

My bike has the 35 tooth sprocket and not the 34 tooth but you can buy one for under $70 shipped.

Thanks,

Almon

71
LF200 / Re: Chain Guard
« on: February 24, 2008, 11:21:05 AM »
Well, I know on the LF200-III it is a tight fit in there. We had an early member who did a 15 tooth front sprocket install (this was before we had the smaller rear sprockets) and he had to cut into the engine casing.

Photos below,

http://www.lifan-moto.com/gallery/fs/

So I would imagine this is an fairly common issue that most people don't realize who are using the 520 setup. I can't speak to the 428 setup because I have not messed with them but I'm certain the same thing can happen.

This should be one of those things that people check out every so often so their counter sprocket is not eating into the wiring or at least, the wiring cover.

Almon

72
Chit Chat / Re: new bike
« on: February 24, 2008, 11:14:49 AM »
Bill received his already and mine should be here this week. All indications are it is a very good exhaust. The only down side is that they do not have these in stock as far as I can tell so have then shipped from another location to their location and then shipped to whoever is buying one.

If you don't mind the wait then it is probably not a bad route to go down. I'll have photos up just as soon as I receive mine and I think Bill is doing a video on his install???

Thanks,

Almon

73
Chit Chat / Re: new bike
« on: February 23, 2008, 11:18:49 PM »
Anywhere below $1,500 including shipping do your door. You will have about $500 more in mod costs that include,

1: Carb jets
2: Conical air filter
3: Rear Sprocket
4: 100/80-18 front tire
5: 140/70-18 rear tire
6: New exhaust

If you look around you can buy a new LF200-III for around $1300, but again, anything under $1,500 is a good deal for this bike.

Almon

74
Chit Chat / Re: new bike
« on: February 23, 2008, 10:20:08 PM »
I'm guessing your talking about the videos Bill made? That would be a LF200-III, a really good bike, I have a new one I just performed all the mods on, I rode today for a little but it was around 40f and this Alabama boy likes it a little warmer ;D

Almon

75
Chit Chat / Re: new guy
« on: February 23, 2008, 10:17:19 PM »
James, I think you hit it right on the head. Good answer!

The only thing I would add is do your research on who you buy from and if you do want a LF200-B from a direct importer you will not have to wait much longer, maybe another month or so at the most (hopefully :)).

Thanks,

Almon



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