Wow, I managed to get a super bright blue tint xenon bulb for my bike - well chuffed! Having said that I didn't get around to trying it at night to see if it was actually any good. Now this is the snag - the bulb worked for a week or so (keep my headlight on all the time for safety) and then stopped so naturally I believed it to have blown - "what both high beam and low beam" I hear you say. I removed the bulb and had a good look at it only to find that it was fine, took a look at the bulb holder and found the spring loaded plastic bit that holds the two contacts had melted - I guess the xenon bulb was running too hot. Try as I might I just couldn't find anywhere to do a replacement bulb holder whether new or second hand so resorted to making a replacement piece from very thin modelling plywood and two brass screws as contacts, bit fiddly to make but it does the job. The especially bad news is that parts for the LF250 are very hard to get in the UK which doesn't bode well for the future as things start to wear out.

Has anyone else got the same problem with the under engine exhaust being badly corroded? The pipe (somewhat twisty - seems gives better balance between the cylinders) is under the bike so hence has to deal with a lot of water splash when riding in wet conditions, I'm a fair weather biker so don't go out in the rain but the exhaust is still very corroded. I'll most certainly have to remove the whole lot before winter to give it a good clean and repaint it as best as I can, been told that spray on barbeque paint works fine.

Have just checked and adjusted the tappets (valve lash) on my LF250 and was glad that I did!
The correct adjustment is as follows:
Inlet 0.08-0.12mm or 0.003-0.005in
Exhaust 0.10-0.14mm or 0.004-0.006in.
As the cam lobes/tappets/rockers wear normally the gap slowly enlarges as the miles are clocked up but out of the four valves (2 per cylinder - inlet and exhaust) all but one had the gap too small which isn't very good for the valve seats. I've only done 4500km since new so hope that I haven't done any lasting damage to the valve seats or valves themselves - I've tried the bike and it pulls okay so I must have got away with it. The job is quite lengthy as there are quite a lot of odd bits to be removed (seat, tank, carb cover, air filter and bits of pipe etc) to simply get at the cylinder heads but it should be within the capabilities of the average mechanical person. When removing the petrol tank the two fuel pipes (main and reserve) will have to be clamped as the on/off valve is not part of the tank. Remove the spark plugs to make turning the engine easier. On the left hand engine cover there is a slotted plug about 30mm in dia which if removed will allow you to use a 17mm socket wrench to turn the engine. For each cylinder turn the engine until the exhaust valve is just closing and the inlet valve is just opening (on the rock) then carefully turn the engine one complete turn further. This allows the tappet adjustment to be made with the cam lobe in the correct place - approximately on the back of each lobe. Each valve has its own round cover set in each rocker cover. When you come to replace the petrol tank do make sure that you don't damage or kink any of the fuel tubing as it could split - happened to me and I lost near a full tank of petrol all over the ground! Hope this helps, Pat

I've owned my Skygo SG 250 - B for about 6 months now and have had almost nothing but pleasure from it. The only real problem I've had is with a slight misfire in the engine caused I believe by a sticking slide in the CV carburettor. I did remove the slide once (bit fiddly as there's quite a lot to remove to just get at it) and put some light oil on it which seemed to cure the problem but of course the oil didn't last long with all the petrol around and the slight misfire has returned. It only occurs on light load throttle settings so is more of a slight annoyance really. When I get to check the tappet adjustments I'll take the slide out and polish it to see if that cures it once and for all. I'm unlucky enough not to have a garage (converted to eldest son's bedroom) so the poor bike has to live outside under a cover so the rust is appearing in a few places but mainly cosmetic at this stage and easily cured. The bike's running characteristics are great with ample power, good handling and very good fuel economy. All in all a great bike and so bladdy cheap compared to Jap stuff - Skygo 250 £1400 - Honda CG125 £2000