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Messages - thatonedeadguy

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Engine Kits / Re: gearing
« on: July 17, 2008, 03:39:57 PM »
Hey!
I am more concerned with function that with apperance, so I cut the hose off of a shop vac and hose clamped it in place.

Something happened with mind over the 4th... I hit 1000 miles and it died. Still seems like I am getting compression and spark but somthing is bound up in the gear box. Has anyone heard of a shop manual for these things? I would feel better about ripping it apart if I had a diagram or 2...


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Engine Kits / Re: gearing
« on: May 22, 2008, 11:41:03 AM »
Glad to see that there are others like me.
 
I bought an engine kit on ebay, it came with the accessories, the cdi, the charger etc. that meant that the only voltage conversion I had to worry about was switching the light bulbs and the battery.
 
the engine will bolt in without a problem, but there are things to negotiate around. you may need to replace the chain, as the new engine is fitted with a larger 428 sprocket and I think the stock is a 420. I am using the 420 rear sprocket with the 428 chain, it doesnt seem to be a problem.
 
If you use the gears that come with it, think about starting in 2nd gear the 1st time you give it a shot.
 
you will also need to get a clutch cable that is specific for the engine. I was able to find one on ebay for about $20.
 
besure that you get an oil cooler too. I guess that without it, no oil gets to the top of the motor, meaning that it will burn out in a few hundred miles.
 
when you get to the exaust and carb alignment, you will have some problems. The stock exaust pipe goes right over the top of the oil cap. also, the intake paterns are alittle bit off making the air filter difficult to line up.
 
I had a local shop weld me a new exaust pipe, using parts from the old one (also the intake), so that it would line up. I told them to put the pipe below the engine. This caused a problem with the brake pedal since it wasnt designed to have an exaust going through it. so, I kinda screwed up by giving them instructions rather than just saying "make sure I can change the oil when you are done". A friend with a welder could probably do the whole thing for a 12 pack, I think I paid $150.
 
Also, since the displacment is larger, the exause may hold up some of the horse power. I got around this by removing the silencer on the muffler. It is loud, but not as bad as the harleys that go down the street, so I think it is all okay.

It worked out good though, I am very happy with my frankin bike.

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Engine Kits / gearing
« on: May 07, 2008, 09:28:10 AM »
I put a lifan 138cc on an old 1965 honda s65 (sport 65). It's lots of fun, has plenty of power and is street legal.

500 miles so far and still going strong.

I’m not sure if the speedometer is working correctly, but it seems to top out at 40mph (while having so much torque in 1st that it does a wheelie, throws the rider off the bike and crashes in the middle of the intersection, twice.). There is all kinds of power at the top of 4th, but then it stops, as if the rpm’s are safety limited to a certain number.

Right now it has a 14 tooth sprocket in front and a 40 tooth in the back on a 17 inch wheels.

The best that I can find on ebay is a 16 tooth for the front and a 37 tooth for the back.

Mostly I intend to use the bike for cruising through rural, windy country highways with speed limits of up to 55mph.  Is the gear combo mentioned above enough to get me there or do I have to look at switching out the internal gears? Is that even possible? Are there different gears that will work for the inside of the gear box?

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